Step by step guide on how to build a shore huss pulley rig.
Pulley rigs are the best choice for shore huss. As a fish is hooked the weight is pulled up off the ground in front of the fish reducing the chances of it getting snagged. A pulley rig also has the advantage that the rig body and hook trace are made from a single length of 80lb mono which gives maximum strength, but uses minimum components to keep losses down.
1. Begin with a 40” length of 80lb mono. To one end tie on a Gemini lead link.
2. Slide on a bait clip. Its best to make a clip your self from 18-gauge stainless steel wire or copper wire about 2” long using a section of stiff tubing to hold the clip in place. Bend the base of the clip back in its self to lock the wire in place inside the tubing. These big clips carry the weight of the big baits better when casting.
3. Slide on a 5mm bead, ideally a Pulley Rig Bead, though a size 4 swivel will do, and another bead.
4. After the last bead tie in a figure-of-eight knot leaving about 15-inches beyond the knot to form the hook trace.
5. Slide on a short section of neoprene tubing and double the line back on its self through the tube, then pull tight to form a sliding stop followed by a 5mm bead to act as a bait stop.
6. Finish the rig by tying on a 4/0 or 6/0 Mustad 79515 Viking hook.
Rig losses can be further reduced over rough by incorporating a weak link system on the end of the rig. A simple one is to tie a weak link of line off the lead link, cut and bend out the eye of a lead weight to form a hook shape, tie the weak link to the eye wire, then put the wire hook inside the lead link for casting. This will fall free when the lead hits the sea leaving you to fish on the weak link and lose only the lead if this gets snagged.
Pulley rigs are the best choice for shore huss. As a fish is hooked the weight is pulled up off the ground in front of the fish reducing the chances of it getting snagged. A pulley rig also has the advantage that the rig body and hook trace are made from a single length of 80lb mono which gives maximum strength, but uses minimum components to keep losses down.
1. Begin with a 40” length of 80lb mono. To one end tie on a Gemini lead link.
2. Slide on a bait clip. Its best to make a clip your self from 18-gauge stainless steel wire or copper wire about 2” long using a section of stiff tubing to hold the clip in place. Bend the base of the clip back in its self to lock the wire in place inside the tubing. These big clips carry the weight of the big baits better when casting.
3. Slide on a 5mm bead, ideally a Pulley Rig Bead, though a size 4 swivel will do, and another bead.
4. After the last bead tie in a figure-of-eight knot leaving about 15-inches beyond the knot to form the hook trace.
5. Slide on a short section of neoprene tubing and double the line back on its self through the tube, then pull tight to form a sliding stop followed by a 5mm bead to act as a bait stop.
6. Finish the rig by tying on a 4/0 or 6/0 Mustad 79515 Viking hook.
Rig losses can be further reduced over rough by incorporating a weak link system on the end of the rig. A simple one is to tie a weak link of line off the lead link, cut and bend out the eye of a lead weight to form a hook shape, tie the weak link to the eye wire, then put the wire hook inside the lead link for casting. This will fall free when the lead hits the sea leaving you to fish on the weak link and lose only the lead if this gets snagged.
