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What are these

A clip down rig is when the trace swivel is above the lead ,and you clip the hook down towards the lead to a bait clip,the leads you have a bait clip on them,hope this helps
 
Cfish said:
Yep! Grippers don't fall down holes!
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John said after I cast out & got snagged that I should have used a grip lead instead of a plain one. I can see what folks mean now.

I might have a go with some South African style grip leads if I can find some cheap leads. Drill two holes and feed heavy strimmer line through.

1649235510360.png
 
Flappy - here's a clipped down rig. The rig is made so that the snood hook will clip down onto the clip on your lead after you have baited your hook. This one shows a Breakaway Imp clip being used, but you could just clip your hook to the weight clip.

1649235953620.png
 
Tatunka joe said:
For rough ground fishing use pulley rigs mate less components to lose and won’t get snagged as much as clip downs certainly whouldnt use srt springs and alike on the rough bey
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@twere just an image to give Flaps an idea Tats. I would think the weight he started the thread about wouldn't be any good for rough ground either bey!
 
Wolf said:
Thanks Trampster,your image,shows exactly what I was trying to describe to flappy.?
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That ShoreRigsForRods website has got some useful images for folk starting out at rig building.
www.shorerigsforrods.co.uk

Shop | shore-rigs-for-rods2

Specializing in making handmade sea fishing rigs shorerigsforrods.co.uk focus is for fisherman to catch more fish around the United Kingdom.
www.shorerigsforrods.co.uk www.shorerigsforrods.co.uk

Not so sure about the prices in his eBay shop though - I've seen rigs a lot cheaper.
www.ebay.co.uk

Clipped Down Rigs - On Winders - Size 2/0 - Cod,Bass,Hounds - Sea Fishing Rigs | eBay

Lead weights NOT included .
www.ebay.co.uk
 
Trampster said:
Flappy - here's a clipped down rig. The rig is made so that the snood hook will clip down onto the clip on your lead after you have baited your hook. This one shows a Breakaway Imp clip being used, but you could just clip your hook to the weight clip.

View attachment 24827
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Ok cool cheers..will adapt the lead link with an extra swivel to make a rotten bottom.
Thanks.
 
Tatunka joe said:
For rough ground fishing use pulley rigs mate less components to lose and won’t get snagged as much as clip downs certainly whouldnt use srt springs and alike on the rough bey
Click to expand...
Can I make a rotten bottom lead link with one of those pulley rigs or not..?
 
flappy said:
Can I make a rotten bottom lead link with one of those pulley rigs or not..?
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Yes, you can either buy rotten bottom links, that cost the earth, or there’s a far cheaper version I use.
Will have to go out to the fishing shed and get you a picture in a bit because it’s not the easiest to explain, although it’s very simple.
I’ll try and sort it in a bit.

Another option is what I use for close in wrasse fishing although it won’t cast too far or too hard.
30lb mainline direct to three way swivel, a 30 or 40lb hook trace on the stand off part of the swivel and 20lb line weight trace on the bottom part.
Just tie the weight direct to the 20lb and if you get snagged, that should snap first.
Obviously it’s not suited to power casting but if you’re lobbing it out up to 50 yards or so it’s no bother. Just check the 20lb length every cast and replace if it’s roughed up. I usually give it a good stretch in my hands and if it breaks, I have my answer, ie replace it.
Also worth using a relatively strong but springy hook that will bend out from snags with a steady pressure.

I’ll grab a picture of my pulley rig rotten bottom in a bit.

Oh, and rather than expensive weights, try and find something disposable, such as old spark plugs, large nuts, anything that’s around 4-5 ounces.
Pebbles in old tights was a traditional one. I’ve gathered pebbles and wrapped them in chicken wire pouches.
If the weight has rough edges like an old nut, I’ll tie a bit of thick mono around it and create a loop to attach to the rotten bottom, rather than try and tie the 20lb direct to it.
 
Mr Fish said:
Yes, you can either buy rotten bottom links, that cost the earth, or there’s a far cheaper version I use.
Will have to go out to the fishing shed and get you a picture in a bit because it’s not the easiest to explain, although it’s very simple.
I’ll try and sort it in a bit.

Another option is what I use for close in wrasse fishing although it won’t cast too far or too hard.
30lb mainline direct to three way swivel, a 30 or 40lb hook trace on the stand off part of the swivel and 20lb line weight trace on the bottom part.
Just tie the weight direct to the 20lb and if you get snagged, that should snap first.
Obviously it’s not suited to power casting but if you’re lobbing it out up to 50 yards or so it’s no bother. Just check the 20lb length every cast and replace if it’s roughed up. I usually give it a good stretch in my hands and if it breaks, I have my answer, ie replace it.
Also worth using a relatively strong but springy hook that will bend out from snags with a steady pressure.

I’ll grab a picture of my pulley rig rotten bottom in a bit.

Oh, and rather than expensive weights, try and find something disposable, such as old spark plugs, large nuts, anything that’s around 4-5 ounces.
Pebbles in old tights was a traditional one. I’ve gathered pebbles and wrapped them in chicken wire pouches.
If the weight has rough edges like an old nut, I’ll tie a bit of thick mono around it and create a loop to attach to the rotten bottom, rather than try and tie the 20lb direct to it.
Click to expand...
Don't think I have any line or rigs over 20lb.. mainline is 20lb..rest of my rigs and hooklengths are 14 lb..
 
flappy said:
Don't think I have any line or rigs over 20lb.. mainline is 20lb..rest of my rigs and hooklengths are 14 lb..
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I'm guessing you don't have a shockleader on the reel either. The rule of thumb is that your line or shockleader should be at least 10Lb breaking strain for each ounce you are casting, so if the heaviest of those Leads is 3oz, you should be using at least 30lb line or shockleader, and the shockleader tied on to the end of your main line should be at least 2.5x the length of your rod. Same applies to the rig body to avoid 'cracking off' when you cast. Hooklengths not so crucial. Doesn't really matter if you.re just doing a gentle lob over the side of a pier or similar.
 
Trampster said:
I'm guessing you don't have a shockleader on the reel either. The rule of thumb is that your line or shockleader should be at least 10Lb breaking strain for each ounce you are casting, so if the heaviest of those Leads is 3oz, you should be using at least 30lb line or shockleader, and the shockleader tied on to the end of your main line should be at least 2.5x the length of your rod. Same applies to the rig body to avoid 'cracking off' when you cast. Hooklengths not so crucial. Doesn't really matter if you.re just doing a gentle lob over the side of a pier or similar.
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In thirty years of fishing I have never cracked off.. don't get the problem.
Used to whack a four ounce lead a hundred yards with 20lb line on the carp rods..never a worry.
 
The vast majority of the time it will be your hook that snags, which is why I always opt for a gripper, so that when it hits the seabed, it doesn't move.
Uptide Vikings will often bend out but it's all horses for courses.
I can't always get away with anything lighter than a meat hook due to our method of landing fish.
 
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